LFW S/R'10 - Day 4
Images Bureau, Mar 9 2010



Young designers at the first show of day four at LFW
The first show of day four at Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) began on an upbeat mood with a fusion of bright colours on the ramp. Three designers, Purvi Doshi, Sashikant Naidu and Masaba showcased their collections back to back.

Purvi’s ‘Kahchindo’ collection made an interesting use of drawstrings in her collection to hold together what seemed to be different pieces of cloth. The garments were bright in colour with reds, pinks, blues and greens interspersed by occasional whites. There was rich embroidery in the form of hand stitches and appliqués. There were floral motifs and prints in checks and triangles. The sarees, skirts, dresses and tops were the embodiment of the Indian classical styles that have the flexibility of becoming fusion wear as well, when teamed with denims skirts, shorts or jeans.

Next, Sashikant Naidu displayed his creations on the ramp. The kaftan and maxi dresses had interesting necklines. There were sarees and kurtas too. The colour palettes varied from earthy tones of browns and olives to greens, maroons, oranges and even various shades of blue. The floral prints added feminine elements while there was a graceful use of subtle, matt-finish gold lace.

The collection from Masaba had the use of patchwork all across the garments. Her range included men’s kurta tops, jackets, women’s tops and kurtas, long dresses and sarees. The prints were totally funky and the use of black and white polka dots ran a riot among the other colour combinations like fuschia pink, green, blue and yellow. The brocade trimmings were wrapped around the necklines even woven throughout the garments.

The fresh talent on the ramp was well received by the audience.

-Sayanti Banerjee, Mumbai bureau

Myoho presented by Kiran & Meghna Agarwal
The Myoho label from Kiran and Meghna Agarwal showcased 'The Butterfly Effect' line of elegant womenswear for Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2010.

These feminine creations floated around the models in light fabrics. Delicate appliqués on silk and floral motif prints, in kaleidoscopic colours like electric blue and fuchsia were embellished with 3D sheen prints.

The fragile beauty of a butterfly came alive in the light silks in dual shades. Long and flowing asymmetric gowns in silks with a mix of prints, fabrics and colours like beige, rust, blue, jade, brown and saffron created an appealing mix of summer wear. Front and back contrast fabrics gave the dresses a touch of duality.

A trendy sporty line unveiled by Neha Agarwal
Neha Agarwal called her collection 'Games People Play'. This was a sporty casual and trendy line with prints of kites and trees. She used a mix of white, grey and black, adding green, red and peach for a fun-filled prêt line.

A printed voile shirt dress with a net sports jacket, a wrap net jacket with voile top and loose sloppy chiffon pants and a balloon dress teamed with a textured jacket with appliqué checks were some of the highlights of the collection..

Maxis, minis, pleated Lurex jackets and dresses with multiple pockets and a play of opaque with solid colours completed the look. It was fun, it was sporty and it can be definitely worn off the field to make a fashion statement.

Paromita Bannerjee showcased a rustic range
The collection was an ode to Bengal and the handlooms of India from Paromita Banerjee, titled 'The Laal Paar and Other Stories'.

The show revolved around a tale of muls, khadi, handlooms, silks, tussars, chanderi, gamchas, mix and match prints and gheras. The 'Laal Paar', which is the traditional red border sari of Bengal, ran through the collection as the focal point of the garments.

Divided into three segments the show started with the 'Off White Red Black Story' where kora handloom tangail sleeveless dress with the Laal Paar red border was teamed with a ghera yoke dress. The kimono sleeve kaftan with temple border and the chanderi leaf green sleeveless tunic were sprinkled with floral and tree of life embroidery.

'The Print Colour Block Story' had wrap over jackets, jama style kurta with chintz printed yoke, ejar pants, and chogha style kalidar jacket kurta with side pockets.

The final 'Drape Story' had hints of Chinese baroque prints on kurtas and blouses. The silhouettes were loose and flowing and the mix of fabrics, embellishments and patterns made a pretty rustic collection from Paromita Baerjee for not only the Indian but international summers too.

Rimzim Dadu’s line a refreshing look at style
The theme of the show was a trifle morbid with death, guns, and cold steel bullets; but the collection at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2010 that emerged from the studio of Rimzim Dadu was feminine with hints of teal, nude, beige, brown, rust and blue.

The garments had a high level of surface texturing for bomber jackets, cocoon coat dresses and texturing that resembled broken zippers.

Fabrics were specially woven and twisted to bring forth a new and more abstract form and the mix of faux leather with shredded cotton, along with deconstructed garments turned into an amazing collection.

Flapper shorts were teamed with a knotted and looped leather vest, while a metallic spaced rings dress and a shredded dress along with a chorded leather jacket made an unusual style statement. Shimmer came in the form of a blue sequined dress while zipper embroidery worked well for a shredded top.

Leather took on a crazy weave for a jacket with a junk rivet jersey dress. Two long dresses gave elegance to the line and the final leather chord dress in rust and brown and the leather weaving draped dresses were works of superior craftsmanship.

From metallic laser cutwork creations last season to another winning collection for the coming months, Rimzim Dadu once again scored with her innovative treatment of fabrics and embellishments.

Kallol Datta’s construction techniques
With an unusual rather grim name like 'Remission – Fall 2010' Kallol Datta’s collection at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2010, was an unconventional creative offering that was influenced by the art of Goya and symbols of death used in the past.

Proving his strength in the construction department, Kallol picked the sleeve of his garments to shower his designing talents. He used volume with transparency in cotton and silk as the base in a colour range of predominantly black but backed with shades of green, white, flesh and studied red.

Using some 3D effects for his garments, Kallol’s look was amazingly wearable although extreme in construction and appearance. The unusual exclusive prints were once again visible on the ramp in the four sections - one of which showed the work of artist Indraneil Ram Kamath.

Starting with the Kitty Kat series the cat print was the focal point of the garments and the creations that caught the eye were the Burial Shroud set - a black looped dress, the green Plastic Surgery dress with front cowls and the red Eulogy dress with side folds.

In the Suicide Series there were jackets of five layers knotted at the neck, the Genocide dress in black and white print was easy and comfortable and the Inmate 3D insert dress was a draped number with rust trousers and a shrug.

With the Prison Slate series the main print was the prison name plate in red or black for deconstructed dresses and the matching cargoes or tunic.

Finally the Road Kill series had the shoe print treading all over the garments for the Puckered dress, the Cocoon Abaya, Forked Road outfit with churi sleeves and the Twisted Sleeve shoe tread dress and trousers.

The headings of the segments may have been somewhat distressing for fashionistas but the collection was one of extreme innovation that only Kallol Datta, the master of construction can create.

Mythology, Anand Kabra's inspiration
Anand Kabra made a stunning impact at the Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2010 show. The collection was titled 'She Was So Dark That She Was Blue' which revolved around Draupadi of Mahabharata.

He worked around a colour story of blue, black and nude along with shades of violet, purple, green, electric blue and splashes of yellow for the prints. Cleverly displaying a Resort, Fall and Indian line in the form of separates, Anand had flowing kaftans and wrap throws along with comfortable jumpsuits and slim skirts for the Resort section.

The Fall line was heavy on construction with sleek jackets, shrugs, wrap minis, slit palazzos and trench coats, all very structured but in basic silhouettes with a touch of asymmetry. Fabrics like jersey were mixed with suede for tailored trousers but comfort was the key word for the fluid feminine pants in printed satin or cotton.

Catering to the Indian wearer, tops were teamed with swirling skirts in prints or solids. There were layers of tulle and chiffon which glittered for lehengas and pre-stitched saris worn with long sleeve cholis and topped with dazzling silver material. Touches of gems and metal acrylic embroidery along with resort jewellery complemented the Indian collection.

Detailing was restricted to the very prominent sharp diagonal pleat lined with metal buttons that traversed down tunics, blouses, trousers and even jumpsuits. The kimono sleeves gave a relaxed comfortable silhouette. The unbalanced one sleeve look fitted with the asymmetry of the fabrics, as well as the shape of the garments.

It was a triple fashion offering from Anand Kabra for each of the seasons; as well as catering to the needs of the fashion followers in a theme that was truly unconventional but cleverly depicted in the garments.

Vikram Phadnis created a sensuous collection
Bollywood’s glamorous designer Vikram Phadnis revealed a new side to his creativity when Philips presented his truly international collection at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2010. The look was simple and sensuous unlike the usual Vikram Phadnis offerings; as the designer moved from shimmer and shine to beautiful elegant creations.

Working on a line of cream and black, Vikram’s interpretation of the resort wardrobe was practical and stylish giving the wear the comfort that holiday attire must have.

The choice of fabrics was georgette, chiffon, jersey, crepe, linen and lace. The show opened with comfortable morning wear comprising cream panelled swing tops, layered blouses, lace dungarees, Bermudas, summer jackets, jumpsuits, jersey Afghan pants, puff sleeved smocks, raglan belted chiffon dress with lace bell sleeves, capris and minis.

Gently introducing just a hint of glitter in the form of striped lame for minis, Vikram brought in black for collar edges and then moved further with black tights, a swirling black print on white chiffon cape, an interesting black mini with a white U-shaped inset and then added some very controlled gold and bead work for yoke, bodice and corsets.

The evening gown section had flowing skirts with black and white bustier detailing, which varied from drapes to flowing chiffon trails around the neck. The final white full skirt shredded gown with a glittering black bodice was a fitting end to a very compact and controlled show. The eye-catching sequinned skull caps as headgear added a touch of retro appeal, while footwear was simple gold sneakers.

Philips presented a very refreshing trendy line by Vikram Phadnis, which will be a hot-seller for summer.

The Satya Paul show was starry
The collection of saris, cocktail dresses and gowns presented a vision of beauty and the Bollywood stars on the ramp added to the glamour of the fabulous Satya Paul show on Women’s Day at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2010.

The collection from the 25-year-old label of Satya Paul was just perfect for the summer/resort 2010 season. Titled 'Zen, Zest, Zip, Zap and Zing' the show proved to be everything that the theme promised. Mandira Bedi opened the show in a green and orange splashed sari with a flame red halter corset.

Colours, textures and shapes in varied forms floated down the catwalk in an easy fluid mode. Crushed fabrics, textured tones of soft and easy silhouettes in pastels, ranging from blue, pink, peach, lemon and soft orange gave the creations an ethereal edge..

Puneet Nanda, the designer, cleverly crafted lehengas and saris in abstract designs while the fabric line up of organza, voile, georgette, crepe, satin, net, chiffon and brocade had the right touches of embellishments as mirror work twinkled and chikan work and aari embroidery, sequins and prints gave a glamorous touch.

The sheaths, sack dresses, gowns, kalidar kurtas and the gorgeous saris, some of them worn with churidars, glittered and dazzled with shading, colours and embellishments. There was a certain 60s touch about the seductively fitted minis while the saris were opulent with lavishly embroidered pallavs and hand-painted floral patterns and abstract forms. The collection of lehengas, cholis and dupattas added to the glitz of the purely ultra formal line.

The show was closed by the statuesque Amruta Patki, Miss India Earth 2006, in a gold and crystal lehenga and lush dupatta and Sara Jane Dias, Miss India World 2007, in a fiery red crepe sari that sparkled with stunning embroidery. Jacqueline Fernandez joined designer Puneet Nanda as he took a bow for the succesful collection.

Undoubtedly the Satya Paul 'zippy' collection on Women’s Day was a dream offering that will thrill the hearts of women in India and across the seas.